The Glorious, Wonderful, Fantastic San Diego Burrito

A complete guide to the history and gastronomy of the world's best burrito, native to the city of San Diego. I said what I said.

Though the San Diego Fish Taco gets all the attention, the Burrito is just as much a part of the cuisine of our fair city. The tortilla-wrapped delicacy is right at the center of San Diego food culture, and the eating of a burrito while sitting on the open hatchback of a car at the beach is a pure pleasure. Sadly, the success of Chipotle and the San Francisco “Mission” style burrito (more on that later) has obscured what I believe to be one of the finest food traditions in the world- the San Diego-style burrito. Herewith, an explanation of the San Diego burrito style, the rules for finding, ordering, and eating one, and a little explanation of what makes it great.

Roots in Sonora

The first thing to know is that, unlike the fish taco which originates in Baja California directly to the South, the San Diego burrito tradition comes from further East. San Diego lies just outside the borders of the vast Sonoran desert, which covers Southeastern California, Southern Arizona, and the Mexican state of Sonora. Historically, the Sonoran desert’s indigenous cultures built their cuisine on beans, corn, and chiles, but Spanish colonists later introduced the two crops that transformed the region: wheat and cattle.

The Sonoran desert, image LACgeo.com

Once European wheat was introduced to the Sonora region, it had to be adapted to the arid climate of the desert. The Akimel and Tohono O’odham people of Southern Arizona proved especially adept at wheat cultivation in arid environments, and the result was the development of the “Sonora” variety of wheat. Sonora wheat became popular in the southwest in the 1800s, because of its drought tolerance and good flavor. Sonora wheat is a soft wheat, easy to grind into fine, white flour. And it produces a stretchy, elastic dough, perfect for making into tortillas de harina, the wheat-flour version of the indigenous American corn tortilla. The Sonora is therefore ground zero for the greatest flour tortillas ever made. The coolest tortilla variation from the region is the sobaquera, which is named “armpit” because it takes a tortilla-maker’s whole arm to make it. Here’s a video of what I mean. But the point is that Sonoran flour tortillas can be big, thin, tender, toasty, and durable. They are a beautiful food to build a cuisine around, and so it is in Sonoraland- big, handmade flour tortillas are the basic foodstuff of the region.

Mural of a woman making a giant sobaquera tortilla by artist Osman Valdez, Hermosilla, Mexico. Photo CC 2.0 by MiriamMirandaV

But it’s not only wheat farming in Sonora. The other major occupation is ranching- the wide desert plains are well suited for cattle, and beef production became a large part of the agricultural tradition of the region. The result is a cuisine based on beef: the slow-cooked Sonoran barbacoa de res, the jerky-like dried and cooked machaca, and the crowning glory of Sonoran food, carne asada. Carne asada- simply “grilled meat”- is thin-cut beef steaks cooked quickly and simply over a smoldering fire of local mesquite or oak wood. The meat is of beautiful Sonoran quality, and the accompaniments are simple: avocado guacamole, a salsa bandera or salsa fresca of tomatoes, onions and chiles, a salsa tatemada of roasted tomatoes and chiles, refried beans, and of course lots of Sonoran flour tortillas. (For a glimpse at a great Sonoran carne asada feast, check out this video from my favorite Mexican-food youtube channel La Herencia de las Viudas depicting a party observing San Rafael’s day).

So the cuisine of the Sonora region was built on four basic elements: flour tortillas, cheese (another byproduct of cattle farming), beef, and beans (especially pinto beans, traditionally served in the refrito style, pureed with beef fat or lard). As you can imagine, it was only a matter of time before someone jumped from serving Sonoran food alongside flour tortillas to putting food inside one, and wrapping it up as a portable package. This was the invention of the burrito, a sister food to the corn-tortilla taco, both based on the idea of putting food inside a tortilla for convenience. Though legends abound regarding the origins of the burrito (and especially its name), it is an obvious manifestation of the Sonora region’s cuisine, and foods resembling modern burritos have been eaten in this culture for generations.

There is much to say about Sonoran cuisine and the origin of burritos, but we’re here to talk about San Diego. San Diego, while not in the Sonoran region per se, is just to its West, and our Mexican food traditions here draw largely from Sonoraland. We therefore inherit burrito culture directly from Sonora (unlike the San Franciscan Mission-style burrito which is a bay-area innovation), and Sonoran influence explains many of the details, rules and customs of San Diego burrito culture.

The San Diego Burrito

If you want to eat a burrito in San Diego, you head to a “taco shop”. We don’t call them taquerias in San Diego: the taco shop is a specific kind of ultra-casual place that specializes in Southern California-style burritos, tacos, tortas, and the items that are made to fill them. Notice I listed burritos first: that’s because, confusingly, burritos are the focus of a San Diego taco shop. It’s just one of those things- I have never seen a place call itself a “burrito shop”, although it would be more accurate. (note on language: in San Diego, a taco is always made with a corn tortilla and a burrito is made with a large-sized Sonora-style flour tortilla. Here, unlike Texas, you can’t get “tacos” made with small flour tortillas- it just doesn’t happen.)

The original “Roberto’s Taco Shop”, est 1964, San Diego, California. CC4.0 by RightCowlLeftCoast

Now: you could order a burrito in a sit-down Mexican restaurant in San Diego, but you shouldn’t: burritos are designed for the most casual environments, are eaten hungrily with the hands, and are best devoured outside, sitting at one of the improvised tables scattered around a taco shop. This is not a formal food- no forks and knives, please. Roadside taco shops- not restaurants- are therefore the natural habitat of the San Diego burrito.

You’ll notice that many San Diego taco shops have a name with the suffix “-berto’s”. This is an inside nod to Roberto Robledo, who opened the first San Diego-style taco shop as an extension of his tortilleria in 1964. The specialty of the house at Roberto’s has always been burritos- Dolores Robledo was famous for them at the tortilleria. Over the years, ex-employees of Roberto’s Taco Shop and other imitators started spinoff shops with names like Alberto’s, Humberto’s, Adalberto’s, Royberto’s, Filiberto’s, and more. There are other non-berto’s shops too, generally called a person’s possessive name: Juanita’s, Rudy’s, Rico’s, Lolita’s, etc. If your taco shop has this kind of name, it’s a good bet it’s a San Diego style place. These days, names have gotten more diverse, and so has the style of Mexican food served in our city. While this is generally a good thing, keep in mind: just because you are in a Mexican food place in San Diego, doesn’t mean it’s a San Diego-style shop serving San Diego style burritos. So, keep your eyes open and ask locals for recommendations. But say you’ve arrived at a place you’re pretty sure is a San Diego-style burrito place. What next?

A typical San Diego Taco Shop menu board. Notice: burritos come first, and carne asada is first on the list. This is meaningful.

You’ll enter the shop and see a busy counter. Burritos are ordered from this counter after consulting with a menu board, which will generally list the available burritos, tacos, and tortas, along with a few specials. The important thing here is that, unlike the “Mission style”/Chipotle burrito place where available ingredients are arranged cafeteria-style in front of the customer who picks and chooses the components of their burrito, the San Diego-style burrito is ordered from a fixed menu. This is because here, a burrito is not a willy-nilly affair: certain ingredients are included in or excluded from different burritos according to a strong set of traditional guidelines. Don’t worry, I’ll explain them all. But first, let’s start with the all-important tortilla.

The San Diego Burrito Tortilla

As is dictated by the Sonoran burrito style, a proper burrito is made with a large wheat-flour tortilla. Sonoran-style tortillas are thinner, larger, and made with less fat than other flour tortillas, and are therefore slightly chewy, flaky, and very durable. These tortillas are baked on a blisteringly hot comal, which leaves them covered with toasted spots- the hallmark of a great flour tortilla. In a taco shop, the tortilla is reheated on a dry griddle as the first step of the burrito making process, which leaves the tortilla dry, pliable, and with a deliciously toasty aroma. This is the opposite of burrito places that steam the tortillas, creating a gummy texture. The toastiness of the tortilla must be preserved, which is why San Diego burritos are always wrapped in paper, never foil. A foil-wrapped burrito holds in moisture, leading to a soggy tortilla. A properly paper-wrapped burrito stays piping hot but dry, meaning the tortilla is flaky and toasty. Classically, yellow paper is used to wrap the San Diego burrito, but white paper is sometimes used too. The best places use both. If you are given a burrito wrapped in foil, you’re not at a San Diego style place.

A Sonora-style flour tortilla.

Burrito tortillas are huge- not quite sobaquera size but at least 12 inches in diameter and sometimes as large as 18 inches. They are large enough to hold a generous amount of food without the burrito-maker having to resort to extreme squeezing techniques- this means you get double folded tortilla layers at either end of the burrito. If the tortilla is good, this is a chewy, toasty treat- the first and last bite of a burrito is almost all tortilla, signaling the tortilla’s central role in a great burrito. I can’t emphasize this enough- a burrito’s quality can be made or ruined by the tortilla. The glory of this Sonora-style tortilla is why San Diegan burritos rarely include rice- it would be an insult to the wheat. It’s also the reason why we avoid watery “whole beans”- it would make the tortilla soggy. Burritos should be moist but not watery, and even have a bit of crunch and chew. With that said, let’s get on to those fillings.

A Guide to the San Diego Burrito Menu

Taco shop menus can be long and confusing. Visitors are sometimes overwhelmed- and in their confusion sometimes order the wrong thing. Don’t worry, I’ll get you through this. Here is a list of San Diego burrito varieties, in rough order of popularity and quality.

The Carne Asada Burrito

The Sonoran roots of San Diego burrito cuisine mean that carne asada- grilled steak- is always at the top of the burrito list. As mentioned earlier, the carne asada feast- based around charcoal-grilled thin-sliced beef- is the crowning glory of Sonoraland. The San Diego carne asada burrito is a tribute to that tradition, containing the basic elements of carne asada greatness: grilled steak, guacamole, and a salsa fresca (“fresh salsa”) made of tomatoes, onions, cilantro, lime juice, and chiles. The meat is marinated in lime juice and oil before cooking, which means it is flavorful and tender. It is then chopped- this is done as a courtesy since whole cuts of steak would be unwieldy in a burrito eaten without cutlery. The meat is cooked thoroughly- no medium-rare here- but it is tender and unctuous because of the marinade. The fresh, green guacamole and slightly crisp salsa fresca- which act here as sort of a relish- combine deliciously with the meat to form an absolutely beautiful, mouthwateringly beefy flavor. Beans, rice, cheese, lettuce, etc. are NEVER included in the carne asada burrito- it would interfere with the greatness of the meat-salsa-guacamole triad. There is a reason this burrito tops most San Diego burrito menus- it’s the one to choose if you are having your first.

The San Diego Carne Asada Burrito: steak, salsa fresca, and guacamole. That’s all, and that’s enough.

The Bean and Cheese Burrito

It might surprise you that the bean and cheese burrito- thought of by some as lowly or children’s food- is at second place in the San Diego burrito list. The truth is, the bean and cheese is a cornerstone of burrito cuisine and deserves its place as a top choice among burrito cognoscenti. In San Diego, the mashed beans known as frijoles refritos are the ones used in burritos. This is mistranslated as “refried beans”, but it actually means “well-fried beans”. No matter. Pinto beans are mashed into a hot, savory, peppery puree flavored with lard (or vegetable oil if the place is “vegetarian-friendly”). A big portion of this bean puree is wrapped in the tortilla along with a generous helping of finely grated cheese. The San Diego taco shop does not generally use traditional Mexican cheese- it uses a combination of mild cheddar and jack cheeses meant to approximate the queso asadero of Northern Mexico. The orange-colored cheese may seem inauthentic to some- but in fact it’s a legit part of the San Diego style and it is delicious. The bean and cheese is a respectable choice for anyone at a San Diego taco shop- it should be ordered enthusiastically and without embarrassment. By the way, this is the only burrito to which rice can be added without anyone thinking twice about it- in which case it becomes the Bean, Rice and Cheese Burrito or “BRC”. The BRC is well known among teenagers and the working classes since it has the highest calorie-to-dollar ratio of all burritos. It’s therefore much more common than you would think among surfers, and it’s also the burrito of choice for vegetarians. (a “veggie” burrito is just a BRC plus guacamole, a permissible customization)

The magnificent Bean and Cheese Burrito.

If your burrito place is serving whole, unmashed beans, whether black or pinto, it is not a San Diego style burrito place. This is definitive. In the other, San Franciscan “mission” burrito style whole beans are used, which leads to a soupy interior. California burrito sophisticates have noticed a “bean gradient” along the coast from San Diego to San Francisco, beans becoming steadily less mashed at more northerly latitudes. Completely mashed beans are a signature of the San Diego style, and are an unfailing indicator of burrito quality.

The Fish Burrito

Sonora-style burrito culture and the Baja-style fish taco tradition collide in the Fish Burrito, a truly San Diego creation. Two crispy battered and fried pieces of fish are wrapped in a tortilla with cabbage or lettuce, white sauce, and salsa fresca. It’s just an expansion and burritofication of the San Diego fish taco, and boy is it good- it’s my personal favorite. The crispy crunch of the fish and vegetables against the chewiness of the tortilla is magic- add green salsa and a hot carrot (more on that in a bit) and you have burrito perfection.

The above three are the most highly-recommended San Diego burritos in my opinion. Visitors should try these first before branching out to other styles, which are a little riskier.

Machaca

In Sonora, thinly sliced beef is air-dried like jerky for preservation. This dried beef is called machaca, and before eating the meat is rehydrated with water, onions, tomatoes and chiles. The result is a stringy shredded stewed beef which also goes by the name machaca. If you see just “beef” on a San Diego burrito menu it will likely be machaca. It’s definitely worthwhile, and it is often combined with scrambled eggs in the original “breakfast burrito”. Since machaca already has onions, chiles, and tomatoes, nothing else is added. I love machaca in all its toothsome glory.

Barbacoa

The other way beef appears is as “barbacoa”, a long-braised guisado of beef and spices. It’s more common in tacos than burritos, since it can be so juicy. This is really for pros only, and it will likely come with just salsa fresca for garnish. If you order a “beef burrito” at a taco shop, you’ll either get barbacoa or machaca, but you probably want carne asada.

Carnitas

Morsels of pork deep-fried in lard are called carnitas in Mexico, and are a specialty of the central plains of the country. Carnitas are traditionally eaten with corn tortillas, so making a “carnitas burrito” is sort of a fusion move. Carnitas burritos- served with salsa fresca and guacamole- can be delicious, especially with a squeeze of lemon. But they are intense- a half pound of fried pork is a lot for anyone to handle. I consider this an “advanced” burrito for pros only.

Pollo Asado

Mexican chicken dishes- particularly the grilled chicken called pollo asado, are fantastic. However, chicken isn’t all that popular in San Diego burritos. Some burrito neophytes, wanting to hedge their bets and order something safe, order a “chicken burrito”. This is a mistake- taco shops don’t specialize in chicken so it won’t be great. (if you want Mexican chicken, try one of the chicken specialists like El Pollo Grill or Jose’s Pollos). Pollo asado is the better of the two chicken burritos (the other is a soupy shredded chicken), but both are outshone by other burrito styles. I’d skip the chicken unless you are very committed to eating a bird today.

Al Pastor, Cabeza, Lengua, Adobada, etc.

These are meats taken from the classical taquero menu. All of these can make great burritos, but keep in mind you’re burritofying a meat that is normally eaten in smaller taco-sized quantities (i.e. the kind of tacos made with 4 inch tortillas). If you’re a stalwart cabeza lover, a burrito made of it can be wonderful, but that’s a lot of steamed cow face for an amateur to eat. Again, pros only.

the “California” Burrito

Ok, here’s the backstory. Since taco shops have deep fryers in their kitchens, some anonymous taco shop owner got the idea to start making french fries. The result was a nachos-knockoff with fries instead of tortilla chips, and the dish called “Carne Asada Fries” was born: French fries topped with carne asada, cheese, guacamole, salsa fresca, and sour cream. This all happened in the early 90s- I was there, and I remember suddenly being able to get carne asada fries at shops. Anyway, through the familiar process of burritofication, someone put carne asada fries in a burrito and called it the “California Burrito”.

Carne asada fries and its offspring, the California Burrito.

This instantly began causing confusion, since most people identify “California style” with healthy food or perhaps the California sushi roll. But the California burrito is almost a dare food it’s so heavy- fries, asada, sour cream, cheese…. Really it’s a stoner meal, even too intense for most teenagers and surfers. The California Burrito has become famous, though it’s mainly ordered by tourists. I totally get people’s desire to try this burrito, but in my honest opinion it’s too chaotic to enjoy. Order at your own risk.

That about covers the major San Diego burrito choices. There will be others on the menu, “combo” burritos or house specialties, and sometimes they can be quite good. But in an unfamiliar shop, I suggest sticking with one of the classics: carne asada, bean and cheese, or fish.

Taco Shop Condiments and Etiquette

OK! now that you’ve chosen your burrito you wait. When it’s ready, it will typically be given to you wrapped up nicely in yellow paper and tucked in a paper bag or laid on a paper plate. Then you will be asked: “salsas?” Though your instinct will be to answer “yes”, the answer is actually “red”, “green”, or “red and green”. This represents the two kinds of available salsas at taco shops: the red salsa tatemada, usually made from roasted tomatoes, onions and chiles, and the hotter green salsa verde made of tomatillos, cilantro, and chiles serranos. You may use either kind of salsa on any burrito, according to your choice- (red salsa is great but I would say green salsa is more popular among aficionados). A safe bet is to use both, together. That’s a boss move.

You have another condiment option, which may or may not be offered explicitly (but it is available, trust me): the pickled carrots, jalapenos and onions known as zanahorias en escabeche or “hot carrots”. It is customary to get a few hot carrots with a burrito, and hold a piece of carrot in one hand and the burrito in the other, alternating bites. The vinegary, spicy pickle offsets the fatty burrito perfectly, refreshing the palate between bites of burrito. It’s just exactly like a kosher dill with a pastrami sandwich- a perfect balance and an essential complement. Just ask for “carrots” and you will be given a little baggie of zanahorias, or you may be shown to an all-you-can-eat bowl of them on a counter somewhere.

A San Diego burrito is a lot of food. A teenager or a laborer can handle one, but those of us with less-turbocharged metabolisms can’t quite eat an entire burrito in one go. For this reason, it’s totally legit to split a burrito with a friend, or save half for later. Word to the wise.

What to drink? Though soda machines exist at most taco shops, the proper things to order are either the cinnamony rice-milk horchata or the red hibiscus punch jamaica. And, if you’re really really lucky, the taco shop will offer a drink called “Orange Bang” which is a creamy orange juice drink that is unbelievable with Mexican food.

Finally, as mentioned earlier, the best possible place to eat a San Diego burrito is at or near the beach. If you cruise the coast at mealtimes, you’ll see people on benches and blankets, tailgates and bicycles scarfing down burritos. Parking lots work too; the point is to enjoy that legendary San Diego sunshine which comes free with every burrito. Enjoy!

p.s. I have tried to be fair to the San Franciscan “Mission” style burrito, but I fear that I have thrown a little shade in my article above. The truth is that, though I respect the regional style, I am not a fan of this kind of burrito. Therefore, you won’t catch me at Chipotle or any of the Mission-inspired places.